After hitting up the Panteon (cemetary) again, the morning after Day of the Dead, we drove into Patzcuaro Centro to do some sight-seeing. We’d been to Patzcuaro, Michoacan in 2008, but every trip brings new experiences and new discoveries!
This time we hit up the public library (biblioteca), originally built as a Augustinian convent in 1576. It has a beautiful floor to ceiling mural on the back wall, depicting the history of Michoacan (La Historia de Michoacan). It was painted in 1942, and took the artist one full year to complete! I also loved the building’s cool, arched wood ceilings. The odd part about this library, however, was the fact that there were very very few books. More than half the space had been dedicated to some unused computers, and small columns displaying Day of the Dead Skeleton figures. They had a card-catalog system, which had me flashing back to my young school years when I would accompany my dad to the Washburn University library for hours on end, while he did research. I spent a lot of my childhood in libraries.
Around this time of year you may find alters like this just about anywhere–and yes–there was even one in the entry to the library. There was a photo in the center showing who it was dedicated to, but I was caught up by the floral pedals arranged on the floor–such artwork!
As it so happens, I had to make a bathroom run while in Patzcuaro. I asked locals for the nearest one, and they sent me down a market alley. I grabbed my customary $3 pesos and was surprised when I arrived at this store of stalls. Next door you could buy purses or cell phones, but here you could buy only a wad of toilet paper, and some porcelain to sit your bum on.
I can imagine the conversations among a social party…
“So, what kind of store do you own?”
“Oh, I own a bathroom store.”
“You mean, you sell toilets?”
“No–but for $3 pesos, you can use any of my 10 toilets!” I wonder if it is lucrative?
Next, I came across a funky little food I have never seen before. When asking the name, they gave me some general name, like “papas” (potatoes). But let me tell you–these were not potatoes. They were little finger-size, red radish-texture thingies, with a white center, a crunch, and slightly sweet flavor. I couldn’t see myself snacking on them at the get-go. But I suppose if I added a little lemon and chili, it could be quite tasty 🙂
Patzcuaro has 6 plazas! This is looking down the street at a chapel, past the Plaza Chica, where the library is located.
In the largest plaza we found a very large open-air market had been set up, with a huge variety of artisans and crafts, and of course, food!
We’ve discovered a Mexican specialty that pleases everyone in the family! Pozole is a fantastic soup made with whole hominy kernels. What’s hominy? It is dried corn that has been soaked in lye, making it large and puffed up. Sounds weird–but wikipedia claims it is perhaps corn in one of its healthiest forms. It is cooked with chicken (bones and all), and usually topped with some lemon juice and chili (and cabbage and cilantro, if you have it!). I still need to work on a vegan version of this…
This food has existed in Mexico since at least the 1500’s. It was believed to be a ceremonious food among the Aztecs, and the meat most often used was from ritual sacrifices of humans. “After the conquest, when cannibalism was banned, pork became the staple meat as it “tasted very similar”, according to a Spanish priest.” Ummm…I’m glad the times have changed!
The same woman selling the pozole also was selling miniature triangle-shaped tamales. Instead of being wrapped in corn husks, these tamales were wrapped in thin strips of banana leaves. Yummy! Double score for our family.
Tamales+pozole=happy kids=happy parents!
We enjoyed looking at the variety of artwork available. I added a few items to my imaginary wall in my head, but continued on without making purchases.
I am always in awe of the Huichol Indian beadwork, which originates from the 10-15 thousand natives who still live north of Guadalajara in the Sierra de Nayarit region. Each of these images is made not by paint or clay, but by meticulously placing a tiny seed bead in place among hundreds of others.
Can you imagine the amount of work in placing each individual beads on these colorful figures? The Huichols wear white clothing with bright, elaborate hand-stitching adorning shirts and pants alike. It’s a culture where you will still see men wearing a great deal of pink! Some day I will sneak a photo to share.
I also find this artwork to be very peculiar, although I really don’t know anything about it. These are mats woven out of a tough fiber.
We came across a ton of the skeleton figures that Mexico is so famous for. Remember the movie, “The Nighmare Before Christmas”? Well, I am sure the artists got their inspiration from Mexico. However, the movie’s depiction of the skeletons is so unlike the depiction of the actual skeletons in Mexico.
These skeleton figures, called “calacas” are quite common–laughing faces, and all! They are meant to depict a happy and joyous afterlife, as opposed to a gruesome or mournful one. This draws on the Mexican belief that no dead soul likes to be thought of sadly, and that death should be a joyous occasion!
Looking down the streets of Patzcuaro, where all of the centro has been painted white with red on the bottom. We’ve been told this is one of the signs of a “Magic Pueblo”, but we’ve seen exceptions. Have I mentioned Magic Pueblos, before? Pueblos Mágicos are a concoction of the Mexico Tourism department starting in 2001-2008. They wanted to bring attention to particular cities that have unique cultural, historical, or social importance, and therefore designated particular towns of importance. We have been to at least 8 on the list of 36, and I must admit that I thought each little town we went to definitely deserved to be one of the elite!
Cool old doors are to be found throughout Mexico…
As are a lot of cool old buildings…
The end
Only 3 more months of blogging to catch up on, which means I have to do almost a post a day to catch up before our next month-long journey to Guatemala. The stress is on!
🙂
